Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Waking Dream

★★★★

7c+ 305 m · 10 pitches
First ascent
Nick Tomlin & Scotty Nelson
Year
2000
Approach
From the South Tower base
Descent
Abseil, including a 60 m free rappel below pitch 8
Topo of Waking Dream
Waking Dream — the original hand topo (The Alcove, Great Roof, Skywalk) beside a photo of the line (route book source page 50).
Pitches

No pitch-by-pitch record survives for this route. If you have climbed it, the logbook wants your topo.

Character

The route that opened the tower. Originally V 5.9 A2 over five days; later freed at 7c+ by Dave Sharratt and Hank Jones. Big-wall character throughout — The Alcove, The Great Roof, The Skywalk, Garden Terrace.

Gear

Original rack: knifeblades, 2 sets nuts, 2 sets Aliens/TCUs, Camalots, Lost Arrows, hooks, rivet hangers, 60 m ropes.

Re-equipped

Later parties added titanium and stainless glue-ins at most stances; pitches 9 and 10 belay off trees to the summit.