Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Ironin 3

★★★

5.13b 485 m · 12 pitches
First ascent
Mahmoud Ghavidel, Ali Rostami, Hossan Ateffi, Nima Parsa, Nassrolah Taheri
Year
2015
Approach
From the South Tower base, right of the Waking Dream line
Descent
Abseil the line
Topo of Ironin 3
The Iranian route — clean photo topo, “mountains for peace, April 2015” (route book source page 55).
Pitches
  1. R12 5.7 50 m To the summit
  2. R11 5.10a 25 m
  3. R10 5.11a 45 m
  4. R9 5.12b A2 —
  5. R8 5.13b A2 70 m The hardest pitch on the island
  6. R7 5.11b —
  7. R6 5.11c A2 50 m
  8. R5 5.11b A2 20 m
  9. R4 — 50 m Traverse
  10. R3 5.12d 40 m
  11. R2 5.10b 25 m
  12. R1 5.12 A2 —

Character

“The Name of God” — the Iranian route, climbed under the banner Mountains for Peace. The longest line on the massif, free to 5.13b with A2 aid sections.

Gear

Big-wall rack: aid gear, hooks, double set of cams, 12 belays.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.

Logbook & trip reports

Article · external link New route: In the Name of God / Ironin 3 (April 2015) Headlamps, Clusterfucks and Other Vertical Adventures · 2015