Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Sam Sam

★★★★

7b 300 m · 8 pitches
First ascent
Eliza Kubarska & David Kaszlikowski
Year
2010
Approach
CP7, then left — shares the Polish Princess start
Descent
Abseil; Czech rap anchors on the line
Topo of Sam Sam
The hand-drawn Sam Sam topo from the logbook (source page 57).
Pitches
  1. P8 III — Jungle to the top
  2. P7 III —
  3. P6 VI —
  4. P5 V 60 m
  5. P4 VI 55 m Past the black roof
  6. P3 VI+ 55 m
  7. P2 6b+ —
  8. P1 6c — Overhang, loose stone low down

Character

For a time the fastest free line to the top of the South Tower. Later adopted as the approach for Polish Princess. Climbed over two days with a bivouac on the summit.

Gear

Rack of cams and nuts, 60 m ropes.

Jungle finish. The upper jungle section has no anchors installed — climb as high as possible before belaying.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.