Dragon's Horns — South Tower
Polish Princess
★★★★★
7b+ 270 m · 8 pitches
Pitches
- P8 IV 25 m Jungle climbing to the top, nice boulder
- P7 6c 25 m Great pillar, easy to protect
- P6 6a+ 35 m
- P5 6a 25 m
- P4 7a 40 m Great pillar — climb the right side of the edge
- P3 6b 35 m Run-out slab, easy. Extra pro 2 m above the second bolt
- P2 6c 30 m Big separated boulder 4 m above the belay
- P1 7b 45 m Overhanging. Worth splitting in two — watch rope drag
Character
The first fully prepared free line to the South Tower summit. Uses Sam Sam as its approach and shares belay R3 with the 2010 Czech route — crossed by accident during the first ascent.
Gear
Full rack of cams to BD #4 plus medium nuts. A 60 m rope climbs it; 70 m makes the abseils cleaner.
Loose rock. On one descent a rope dislodged a block that hit a party member — hospital trip. Anchors are still partly one bolt plus old tat. Helmets, careful rope management, vigilance.
Bolt status · updated
P1 2× thaitanium P2 1× SS 316 + 2× thaitanium P3 1× SS 316 + 1× thaitanium + 1 drilled hole