Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Freebird

★★★★

6a 230 m · 7 pitches
First ascent
Timothée Guillon, Nicolas Gay, Apull Shaiful Amin, Tam Khairudin Haja
Year
2015
Approach
CP7, then up — shares the approach with Puncak Anak
Descent
Abseil left onto Polish Princess
Topo of Freebird
Freebird — photo topo with belays R1–R6 (route book source page 73).
Pitches
  1. P7 IV Tree/jungle traverse to the top
  2. P6 6a 20 m Direct up the line above R5
  3. P5 6a 40 m Direct into the dyno crack — harder but better pro
  4. P4 5c Traverse exactly on the loose slab, head right
  5. P3 5 Pockets, slabby runs, flaring crack — creative placements
  6. P2 5c Use long slings; better belay stance on the lower left
  7. P1 6a Nice slab, 50–50 protection. Sketchy move 8 m up

Character

A slab and crack adventure route with runouts in beautiful rock — the friendliest serious line on the massif, and the most repeated by Malaysian teams. A direct variation was added in 2016.

Gear

2 racks of cams, set of nuts, 2 × 50 m ropes, lots of slings. Nothing in place.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785rescue info.