Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Damai Sentosa

★★★★★

6c+ 280 m · 7 pitches
First ascent
Stéphanie Bodet, David Kaszlikowski, Dan Liu Yong, Arnaud Petit, Tam Khairudin Haja
Year
2013
Approach
Tanjung → Simukut hill trail → CP5, then left — 1–2 h
Descent
Abseil the line — about 2 h
Topo of Damai Sentosa
The hand-drawn Damai Sentosa topo, photographed from the Mukut logbook (source page 46).
Pitches
  1. top scramble Tough scramble to the summit — no grade
  2. P7 6b Harder than the 6b+ pitch below — the sketchy one
  3. P6 6b+
  4. P5 6c+ Crux well bolted
  5. P4 6c Mental crux — big runouts, easy climbing
  6. P3 6c+ Crux well bolted; the 8a variation branches here
  7. P2 6b+
  8. P1 6a+ Tree-climb start; the right start is harder

Character

A great steep climb on compact rock, almost all bolted, up the south-west pillar. Seven pitches to a tough summit scramble. The most repeated hard route on the tower and the one that has seen the most anchor upgrading.

Gear

60 m ropes (50 m should be OK). Max 10 bolts per pitch. Small cams 0.2–2; nothing needed above P3 until the last pitch.