Tioman Climbing Guidebook

From the Mukut logbook

Naga (龍) — the first ascent

Fizi Ishak, Aril Hasril, Dorge @ Apek Langit Biru, Da Liu (Liu Yong)  ·  8 April 2017  ·  Naga

“The Dragon” → “Naga” 龍 — 270 m, 6B+, 8 pitches.

First Ascent: Fizi Ishak, Aril Hasril, Dorge @ Apek Langit Biru, Da Liu (Liu Yong), 08 April 2017.

This might be the first local bolted multi-pitch route with a Chinese climber. It has a very nice view and straight line. The climbing line is visible from CP9 from the other side of the peak.

Trail: start hike from Hillview Lodge along the trail till CP7, then turn to the left, keep hiking up to the wall.

Base camp: we built a nice base camp on the foot of the wall in case of raining or bivy in the jungle.

Climbing: start from the small crack, go straight, first bolt is 5 m high, then climb straight up to the overhang part, then turn to the right to first anchor. Second pitch is easy straight climbing to the right, then all the way straight up. We made good anchors on every pitch. Beware of some loose rock on pitch 3 and 4. The last is almost steep hiking along the trail, leads to the big rock on the summit. We bolted most of the face-climbing parts and left the crack, trees and some of natural protection.

Gear: 1 set of cams, 1×70 m rope or 2×50 m ropes, some runners, bring some water.

Don’t forget give good comments for our hand works. Special thanks Abe’s help & members of CMC. Work: MAS Climbers & Chinese Mountain Club (华岳会).

— Da Liu, April 08 2017

Original logbook page: Naga (龍) — the first ascent
Original page — Naga (龍) — the first ascent. Route book, source page 67.

Transcribed for this guidebook; the transcription may contain errors — check it against the scan. This is a climber's personal writing, reproduced for the record. To have it credited differently or removed, email rizhaow@gmail.com. See also the Naga route page.