Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Batu Naga

★★★★

5.12a 300 m · 8 pitches
First ascent
Cedar Wright & Lucho Rivera
Year
2011
Approach
CP5, take the left trail to the wall, then left along the base past an old basecamp with a water jug and lantern
Descent
Scramble left then right up a gully to the summit ridge trail
Topo of Batu Naga
Batu Naga (“Stone Dragon”). David Kaszlikowski photo, route book source page 44.
Pitches
  1. P8 — — To the summit ridge
  2. P7 — —
  3. P6 — —
  4. P5 5.11− —
  5. P4 5.12 — Dynamic crux
  6. P3 5.11+ — Technical crimps
  7. P2 5.11− —
  8. P1 5.11 —

Character

“Stone Dragon”, up the south-facing white buttress. Serious: given 5.12R, with long runouts on easier ground.

Gear

Single set of cams to #3 Camalot, extra thin, 10+ slings, stoppers, 6 quickdraws, 2 ropes.

Be prepared for long runouts on easier ground, on bullet knobs and flakes.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.