Dragon's Horns — North Tower
Tanoshi Buttress
★★★★
5.10 R/X 270 m · 7 pitches
Pitches
No pitch-by-pitch record survives for this route. If you have climbed it, the logbook wants your topo.
Character
“Happy Buttress” — the first ascent of the unclimbed North Dragon’s Horn, following the longest swathe of good rock on the formation. It essentially follows the buttress just left of the right skyline as seen from Mukut.
Gear
Double set of cams, one #3 and one #4 Camalot, set of stoppers, lots of runners, hand drill.
R/X protection. All belays are natural — only a few bolts were placed on rappel. Falls on this route have serious consequences.
From the first ascensionists
“The summit is somewhat unremarkable unless you climb a tree.”